Real women: the latest fashion

Size, age and colour are no longer a barrier to a career on the catwalk – that was the message from London Fashion Week. Fashion editor Susannah Frankel reports

Muscular athletes in Stella McCartney's sportswear line for Adidas, Christopher Kane's blonde bombshells, models well into their thirties at Giles Deacon, a little ethnic diversity across the board ... One could be forgiven for thinking that fashion had developed a conscience, if this week's London collections were anything to go by.

The reasoning behind such a move is as likely to be commercial and aesthetic as it is ethical – fashion is famed for a ludicrously short attention span, after all – but the fact remains that designers are increasingly hiring a wider variety of models and it is likely that this will continue next week in Milan and straight after in Paris.

Not many people working outside the fashion industry will recognise the name Russell Marsh, but as the casting agent behind many of the world's most high-profile advertising campaigns, glossy magazine editorials and catwalk shows, he is extremely influential.

On Wednesday he told The London Fashion Week Daily, a free news sheet funded by the British Fashion Council: "I like reality, especially in times like these. We need a wake-up call. I think it's time people saw things for how they are. Grow old gracefully, I say."

Given that, for years, Marsh has been at the forefront of a mindset decreeing that seeking out the youngest waifs in the world to model is the last word in high style, this seems like quite a radical about-turn. In particular, Marsh works for Prada, whose catwalk famously launches the careers of a fresh crop of models every season. Because of this, the more established names (and established can mean a model who has worked for six months or, if she's lucky, two or three years) have become almost as disposable as the clothes they wear. But that, may be about to change.